The Spiritual Variant of the Camino Portugués: a different way to Santiago
There are many ways to walk to Santiago. You can follow the traditional Camino Portugués, stay close to the coast, or choose a quieter alternative through the green landscapes of Galicia. About the way from Pontevedra to Santiago on the central you can read here.
After Pontevedra, there is another possibility.
The Spiritual Variant of the Camino Portugués, or Variante Espiritual, takes pilgrims through traditional villages, vineyards, forests and monasteries before reaching the coast — and then possibly replacing part of the walking journey with a boat ride along the Ría de Arousa.
It is one of the most unusual sections of the Camino, and perhaps one of the most beautiful. But the Spiritual Variant isn't only about the scenery. It is about slowing down, walking through forests instead of busy roads, sitting quietly beside a monastery, watching Galicia pass by from the deck of a boat, and perhaps most importantly, about giving yourself permission not to rush.
What is the Spiritual Variant of the Camino Portugués?
The Variante Espiritual is an alternative route of the Camino Portugués in Galicia. The route branches away from the traditional Camino after Pontevedra and takes you towards Poio, Combarro and Armenteira. From there, the route continues through the beautiful O Salnés area, eventually reaching Vilanova de Arousa.
Then comes the part that makes this Camino route particularly special. You can walk the last section or take the Traslatio, a boat journey along the Ría de Arousa and the River Ulla, before continuing on foot towards Pontecesures and reconnecting with the Camino Portugués towards Santiago in Padrón.
So yes. For part of your pilgrimage, you can choose not to walk, but to sail. And honestly? After several days of walking, it can feel pretty wonderful.
Spiritual Variant Camino Portugués stages
The Spiritual Variant is commonly divided into three main sections:
Stage 1: Pontevedra → Armenteira
Approximately 20–23 km. This is the stage where you leave the busier Camino behind and begin moving into a much greener landscape. You pass through Poio and the beautiful coastal village of Combarro before heading inland towards Armenteira. There is a significant climb, so don't underestimate this stage. You will see a big change in the number of pilgrims you meet here than the in the days before. Most people choose to stay on the central route.
Stage 2: Armenteira → Vilanova de Arousa
Approximately 24 km. This is one of the most beautiful walking days. The route includes the Ruta da Pedra e da Auga, or Route of Stone and Water, following a lush river valley through forests and past historic watermills. Eventually, the landscape opens towards the vineyards and coastal scenery of the Rías Baixas.
Stage 3: Vilanova de Arousa → Pontecesures
This is the unusual one. Instead of walking the whole section, pilgrims take the Traslatio boat. The boat follows the Ría de Arousa and the River Ulla towards Pontecesures, after which you continue on foot towards Padrón and Santiago.
Tip: you shall book your ticket for the boat ahead, and the starting time can vary based on the weather, number of pilgrims, and of course the sense of time of Spanish people.
Poio
Poio is a small village where you would just walk through, but if you have the time, don't miss out on the Mosteiro de San Xoán de Poio. It is a very special church, with walls full of mosaics showing the important stages of the Camino Frances, has a nice garden and a small museum. They also have some of the famous horreos preserved, where people used to store grains. After visiting the monastery go to the other side of the road where you will find an information office, get a stamp and use the bathroom (priorities...).
Combarro: don't just walk through
One of the first highlights of the Spiritual Variant is Combarro. This traditional Galician village sits beside the Ría de Pontevedra and is famous for its stone houses, narrow lanes and traditional hórreos. It is one of those places where the Camino gives you a choice. Keep walking because you have kilometres to cover, or stop, have a coffee, explore the little streets, walk towards the water, take a few photos then continue. After Combarro you will have a big climb towards Armenteira, but we all know the best views worth the climb.
Armenteira and the monastery
Eventually, the route takes you towards Armenteira and the beautiful Monastery of Santa María de Armenteira. This is one of the places where the Spiritual Variant really feels different from a standard walking holiday. The atmosphere becomes quieter, there are fewer distractions. And after a day of walking, the monastery feels like a natural place to pause. You don't have to be religious to appreciate it. You don't even have to consider yourself a particularly spiritual person. Sit for a few minutes, look around, let your feet recover, sometimes that is enough.
Tip: If your schedule allows it, don't arrive at Armenteira just before dinner and immediately go to bed. Give yourself some time here, visit the monastery, enjoy the sounds of nature. This is one of the places where less rushing can make the Camino experience richer.
You can sleep in the monastery too, but keep in mind it is usually booked 1-2 months ahead and costs around 70 euros per person.
Ruta da Pedra e da Auga
The second stage brings one of the most memorable sections of the Spiritual Variant.
The Ruta da Pedra e da Auga follows the river through a beautiful green landscape. You walk beneath trees, you pass old stone structures and watermills, you hear the river beside you. The landscape feels almost magical.
And if you are walking the Camino during a busy period, this is exactly the kind of section where you may find yourself appreciating the quieter nature of the Spiritual Variant. It gives you space.
Be careful at this section, right after you leave Armenteira in the morning you go into the forest, and you have walk through routes and stones. Please walk slowly and don't start too early in the dark, it will be very important to watch your steps. Also you don't want to miss the beauty of that forest and waterfalls.
The Traslatio: the Camino by boat
And then comes one of the most unexpected moments of the route. The boat.
From Vilanova de Arousa, the Traslatio follows the Ría de Arousa and the River Ulla towards Pontecesures. The maritime journey is traditionally associated with the story of the arrival of the remains of Saint James in Galicia. Along the route, you can see the traditional stone crosses known as cruceiros. But even if you aren't particularly interested in the historical or religious meaning of the journey, the boat trip itself is a wonderful Camino experience. After spending days walking, suddenly you are sitting on the water, the landscape moves past you.
Your backpack is beside you, and your feet get a break. Look up, watch the water, watch Galicia. You've earned it.
Do you need to book the Camino boat?
Yes — plan ahead.
This is one of my biggest practical tips for the Spiritual Variant.
The boat is not something I would leave until the last minute, particularly if you are travelling during the busy Camino season.
Check:
current sailing dates
departure times
departure location
whether advance booking is required
what happens if the service is cancelled
whether the boat provides a pilgrim stamp
Your walking itinerary needs to work around the boat schedule. Not the other way around.
Walking from Vilanova de Arousa to Pontecesures
Not everyone takes the boat.
If you prefer to keep your Camino entirely on foot, you can also walk from Vilanova de Arousa to Pontecesures, following the land-based alternative to the Traslatio. It is a longer day, but it gives you a completely different experience of this final section of the Spiritual Variant.
Instead of watching Galicia from the water, you continue through the countryside, passing vineyards, small villages and quiet rural roads. The landscape gradually changes as you move inland towards the River Ulla and the point where the Spiritual Variant reconnects with the traditional Camino Portugués. There is something satisfying about walking the entire way. No boat schedule to worry about. No fixed departure time. Just your feet, your backpack and the yellow arrows.
Tip: If you plan to walk this section you will walk through natural parks by the water, visiting ruins of old towers and viking boats. I also found a tiny lake, which is not included in the camino route but only 50 meters away from it. It is called Lagoa de Pedras Miúdas, worth a visit for a rest and lunch break.
Is it worth walking?
If you enjoy the walking itself and have enough time, absolutely. The boat is one of the unique experiences of the Spiritual Variant, but walking gives you more time to experience the landscape at ground level. You notice the small things: stone houses, gardens, vineyards, church towers and the everyday life of rural Galicia. It also makes the day feel more like a traditional Camino stage.
However, keep in mind that this is a significantly longer day than taking the boat, so check the current route and distance before deciding. Depending on the itinerary and the exact route followed, the walking alternative can add considerable kilometres to your day.
Tip: If you are considering walking instead of taking the boat, plan your accommodation in advance and check where food and water are available along the route. And don't choose the walking option simply because you feel that taking the boat is somehow "less authentic." It isn't. The Traslatio is itself an important part of the Spiritual Variant.
But if what you came to the Camino for is walking, putting one foot in front of the other, day after day, then there is something beautifully simple about staying on the trail. Eventually, you reach Pontecesures, reconnect with the traditional Camino Portugués and continue towards Padrón and Santiago. By then, you may have spent one more full day on your feet.
And perhaps that is exactly how you wanted it.
Is the Spiritual Variant difficult?
The Spiritual Variant is not an extreme mountain route, but it isn't completely flat either. The first stage towards Armenteira includes a substantial climb (400 meters elevation in around 6 kms). The forest sections can also be uneven, and wet weather can make stones and paths slippery. So don't choose your footwear based purely on how pretty it looks in your Camino photographs. Choose comfort and stability. Your feet will thank you.
Tip: if you have more time you can divide the 3 days distance into four and enjoy your time in nature or on the beach.
What should you pack for the Spiritual Variant?
You don't need special equipment, but I would make sure you have:
Comfortable walking shoes, especially important for the forest and river sections.
A lightweight rain jacket. Galicia can be wonderfully green partly because it gets rain.
Water bottle. Carry enough for the stage and refill whenever you have a reliable opportunity.
Snacks. Don't assume there will be a café exactly when you need one.
Blister supplies. Even if you have never had blisters before.
Where to stay on the Spiritual Variant
Accommodation is more limited on some sections than on the main Camino routes.
I recommend booking ahead, particularly for:
Armenteira
Vilanova de Arousa
accommodation close to your planned boat departure
popular private accommodation during peak season
If you are walking outside the busiest months, you may have more flexibility. But if there is a particular place you really want to stay? Book it. There is nothing particularly spiritual about spending the evening desperately searching for a bed. You can also devide this section diferently than suggested. I walked further every day than the original stage end, so the last day was not that long. I also found very nice new hostels, can especially recommend the one in Carril right after Vilanova de Arouse. You can see here that the municipal hostels in Galicia are different, this one had a full wall glass facing the water, with a nice kitchen, terrace and a living room on the top floor where you can see the sunset.
Food and water on the Spiritual Variant
One of the great pleasures of walking through the Rías Baixas is the food. You are travelling through a region known for seafood, local produce, traditional Galician dishes and Albariño wine. But don't make the mistake of assuming that every rural section will have cafés and restaurants every few kilometres. Especially on quieter sections: eat breakfast, carry snacks, fill your water bottle. And if you find a lovely little café? Stop. You are on the Camino.
Is the Spiritual Variant actually spiritual?
This is my favourite question.
Because I don't think spirituality on the Camino has to mean religion. It can mean silence, walking without headphones, sitting beside a river, watching the sunrise. It can mean having a conversation with another pilgrim that you know you will remember for years.
Or simply realising that you have spent the last hour walking without thinking about your phone, emails or everyday responsibilities. You don't have to search for a life-changing revelation. Sometimes the quieter moments are enough.
My simple Camino ritual for the Spiritual Variant
If you want to make this part of your Camino a little more personal, try this. Before leaving Pontevedra, write down one thing you would like to leave behind. A worry, an expectation, a habit. Something you have been carrying for too long. Fold the paper, put it away, maybe make a promise for yourself to leave it behind at least for the next three days, then start walking. You don't need to know exactly what will change. Just give yourself the space to notice.
Practical tips for walking the Spiritual Variant
1. Check the boat schedule first. Build your itinerary around the Traslatio.
2. Don't underestimate Pontevedra–Armenteira. The climb makes this the more demanding stage.
3. Don't rush through Combarro. Allow time to explore.
4. Give yourself time at Armenteira. It is more than just an overnight stop.
5. Wear proper walking shoes. The forest and river sections can be uneven.
6. Carry snacks and water. Services are less frequent in some areas.
7. Book ahead during peak season. Especially around Armenteira and Vilanova de Arousa.
8. Check the weather. Rain can change the character of the trail.
9. Keep your backpack light. You don't need much for these stages.
10. Leave some time for simply being there. Not every Camino moment needs to be productive.
Would I choose the Spiritual Variant?
If you have enough time on your Camino Portugués, the Spiritual Variant gives you something different. Not necessarily more, just different.
You exchange some busy Camino sections for: quiet forests, rivers and old watermills, monasteries, traditional Galician villages, vineyards, coastal landscapes, a boat journey, moments of silence.
And perhaps that is why I like the name. The Spiritual Variant doesn't tell you how you should feel, it simply gives you a little more space to feel whatever you are already feeling.
And sometimes, that is exactly what we need from a Camino. Not more kilometres, but more moments.
Hope these tips get you in the mood for your next adventure, and you found some useful information. If you still need more details or build up confidence and courage for the planning and start of your journey, don't hesitate to contact me or email me, I'm happy to help.
You can also find me on social media with more useful advice and travel pictures at @wander.with.dora name. Contact me for a free call on wanderwithdora@gmail.com
Safe travels everyone. Buen camino!
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