Camino Portugués Central part 1: from Lisbon to Coimbra
When most people imagine the Portuguese Camino, they picture the Atlantic Ocean. Long wooden boardwalk, sandy beaches, fishing villages, the sound of waves.
But there is another Portuguese Camino.
One that begins in the heart of Lisbon and takes you north through vineyards, farmland, historic towns, quiet villages and ancient pilgrimage landscapes before finally arriving in Santiago. This is the Camino Portugués Central. And if you are looking for a quieter, more inland Camino experience, this part of the route deserves your attention.
The Central Way is the most frequently used Portuguese route to Santiago and is fully waymarked from Lisbon with the familiar yellow arrows. The traditional route passes through places including Santarém, Golegã, Tomar, Coimbra, Águeda and finally Porto (for the first half). It is not always the easiest section, some stages are long, there are stretches where you may walk for hours without seeing another pilgrim, there are roads and industrial areas. There are hot days when shade seems impossible to find.
But there are also moments when you are walking through a tiny Portuguese village, hearing nothing but birds and your own footsteps, and you suddenly understand why people choose to walk all the way from Lisbon. This is a Camino of transitions. And the further north you walk, the more the landscape begins to change.
Lisbon: where the Camino Central begins
There are many possible places to begin your Portuguese Camino, but starting in Lisbon gives you something special. You begin in a capital city, surrounded by history, noise, trams, tourists and restaurants. And then, step by step, you leave it all behind.
The traditional route begins at Lisbon Cathedral, before passing through the old streets of Alfama and gradually heading north towards the River Tagus. Standing in front of the cathedral before your first walk, you may feel excited or nervous, or completely unprepared.
Perhaps you have spent months planning your backpack, accommodation and flights. Perhaps you have simply decided that it is time to go. Either way, there is something wonderfully simple about the first step. You don't need to know exactly what the next few weeks will bring. You only need to follow the yellow arrow.
A useful tip for starting in Lisbon
Give yourself at least one night in Lisbon before beginning the Camino. If you arrive late, consider spending two nights. Jet lag, travel stress and a long first walking day are not a particularly good combination. Also this beautiful city deserves exploration. You can buy your credential at the Cathedral or at the Pilgrim's Office 200 metres from the cathedral. You can also get your first stamp at these locations.
Don't feel that you have to walk the first official stage exactly as written in a guidebook.
The official information lists Lisbon–Vila Franca de Xira as approximately 34,5 kilometres, which is a very long first day for many pilgrims. And have to tell you that I stopped at Alhandra and it was already 34 kms, so distances on websites and apps are not always accurate. There is absolutely nothing wrong with shortening it, your camino does not become less authentic because you walk fewer kilometres .
Lisbon to Alhandra: leaving the city behind
The first day takes you through the northern outskirts of Lisbon and towards the River Tagus.
You pass through or next to places such as Sacavém, Alpriate, Póvoa de Santa Iria and Alverca before reaching Alhandra. This is not necessarily the most spectacular walking day, and that is worth saying. The official route now goes on a wooden boardwalk for more than 25 kms. It is long, hot, and let's be honest, boring. There are a few stops where you can leave it and get into the smaller villages. And at the end you have to walk on the side of the road.
Some days are challenging. The first day is about getting into the rhythm. You begin to understand how your backpack feels after several hours. You learn how often you need water (take plenty of water for this section with you as there are no bars or fountains if you follow the boardwalk).
You discover that the little discomfort in your foot at kilometre eight is something you should probably deal with immediately rather than pretending it will disappear. It won't.
The Camino is very good at teaching you to listen to your body. Stop when you need, sit down, eat and drink, enjoy the view of the water.
Alhandra to Azambuja: following the Tagus
From Alhandra, the camino continues north through Vila Franca de Xira, Carregado and Vila Nova da Rainha before reaching Azambuja. This section follows the landscape of the Tagus River and gradually takes you away from the Lisbon metropolitan area. Vila Franca de Xira is particularly associated with Portuguese bullfighting traditions and the rural culture of the Ribatejo region. But perhaps the most noticeable change is simply the space, there is more countryside, more open sky, more agricultural land, and fewer distractions.
This is where the Camino begins to feel like a real journey rather than simply a long walk starting in a city.
A useful tip: don't rely on cafés being everywhere
One of the differences between the Lisbon–Porto Central Way and some of the busier Camino sections is the feeling of distance between services.
Before leaving your accommodation each morning, check:
where you can buy water
where you can get breakfast
where the next supermarket is
whether your accommodation has food available
how long the next section without services may be
A small snack in your backpack can become surprisingly important by kilometre 20.
Azambuja to Santarém: a long day along the river
The official route lists Azambuja to Santarém at approximately 33 kilometres.
That number alone tells you something important about the Lisbon–Porto Camino.
The stages published in traditional route descriptions are not necessarily designed around today's preferred walking distances. You don't have to follow them exactly. If 30+ kilometre days are not comfortable for you, divide the route differently. The camino is your journey.
As you walk towards Santarém, the landscape becomes increasingly rural. You pass through places such as Valada and Porto de Muge before climbing towards Santarém. For me the last kilometres into the city were a bi tricky. You can see it and think, oh I'm almost there, then it turns out you are still 9 kms away. Also the last few kilometers are a big climb to the city centre. And after a long day, arriving in Santarém feels like reaching an important milestone. Because it is.
Santarém: a city worth exploring
Santarém is one of the most interesting stops between Lisbon and Porto.
The city sits high above the Tagus and has a long history stretching back through different cultures and periods. For pilgrims, Santarém also marks an important transition. From here, the Camino heads inland towards Tomar. The landscape changes, and so does the feeling of the walk. Before leaving Santarém, give yourself some time to explore the historic centre. Visit the churches, walk through the old streets, find a viewpoint (my favourite was behind Igreja de Santa Clara, you have a view of the whole valley below the city). You can get all informations at the tourist office with a city map and of course a stamp which represents the gorgeous rose window of the church.
Have a proper meal, your legs may tell you to keep resting, listen to them.
Make a decision: follow the route, or make a detour to Fátima
In Santarem you can choose your route. You can take a turn to Fátima, then the route joins the camino at Tomar or later near Ansiao. If you choose this route you have to follow the blue arrows. I would suggest not to pass Tomar later, as this is a nice place to stop too. The other option is to walk to Tomar and take the bus the next morning at 7 to Fátima, then come back in the evening. Keep in mind, there is one bus in each direction every day.
Fátima is most famous as one of the world's major Catholic pilgrimage destinations.
In 1917, when three Portuguese shepherd children, Lucia dos Santos and her cousins Francisco and Jacinta Marto reported seeing apparitions of the Virgin Mary near Fátima.
According to their accounts, the apparitions occurred on the 13th of each month from May to October 1917. The final event, on 13 October 1917, became associated with the famous “Miracle of the Sun.”
Today, millions of pilgrims visit Fátima, particularly around 13 May and 13 October, the anniversaries of the first and final reported apparitions.
The main pilgrimage complex is the Sanctuary of Fátima, which includes:
Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary – the large basilica where Francisco and Jacinta are buried, while Lucia is also buried there.
Chapel of the Apparitions – built at the location traditionally associated with the apparitions.
Basilica of the Most Holy Trinity – a much more modern and enormous church on the opposite side of the sanctuary square.
Sanctuary square – a huge open space where large pilgrimages and religious ceremonies take place.
The children's homes in Aljustrel – a short distance from the sanctuary, where the three shepherd children lived.
Santarém to Golegã: Into the Ribatejo Countryside
The next stage heads towards Golegã, passing through Vale Figueira, Pombalinho and Azinhaga. Azinhaga has a particularly interesting literary connection. It was the birthplace of Portuguese Nobel Prize-winning author José Saramago. This is one of those details that can easily be missed if you are focused only on reaching your destination, and that is why I like travelling slowly. You start noticing the stories attached to places. Every village has something behind it, a church, a bridge, a historical event, a local tradition. You just have to stop long enough to notice. I was glad that I stopped here, found a nice farm house with a swimming pool and a huge garden. On the Lisbon-Porto section the hostels and albergues seemed to be more fancy for me, swimming pools are not rare even at family houses, also the furniture and the buildings all seem to be relatively new.
Golegã: horses, tradition and a change of pace
Golegã is famous for its equestrian traditions and is an interesting place to spend a night.
After several days of walking through the landscape around the Tagus, the town offers another glimpse into rural Portuguese life. Don't be surprised if you meet locals dressed in traditional clothes on the back of a horse. I walked through the city in the morning, and that was the first thing I noticed. The route then continues towards Tomar. And Tomar is one of the places where the Camino begins to reveal more of its historical depth.
Tomar: the Templars and the Convent of Christ
Tomar is famous for its connection with the Knights Templar and the spectacular Convent of Christ, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The city's history is deeply connected to the Templar order, and the monastery complex above the town is one of the great historical highlights of this part of Portugal. There is something particularly fitting about arriving here on foot. You have been following an ancient pilgrimage route, you have crossed villages and countryside, and suddenly you find yourself in a city whose history is deeply connected with medieval religious and military orders. Take your time, walk through the old town, visit the Convent of Christ, sit in the main square.
If you have time and energy visit the Aquaduct outside of the city, it is very interesting. As I slept before Tomar and only walked 10 kms that day I had plenty of time to discover, and didn't regret it. The convent is truly breathtaking, worth the climb to the hill.
To be honest if I would walk this route again I would visit Santarem, Fatima and Tomar by bus and would start walking from here. But of course what feels a little more boring to one, can be the best section for another.
Tip: plan your sightseeing around your feet
This sounds obvious, but it is surprisingly easy to forget. If you arrive in Tomar after walking 25–30 kilometres, you may not feel like immediately climbing a hill and spending two hours exploring a huge monument. If the historic site is important to you, consider staying an extra night. There is no rule saying that every Camino town has to be a one-night stop.
Tomar to Alvaiázere: the landscape changes
Leaving Tomar, the route becomes more rural and, for many pilgrims, more demanding. This is where the Central Camino can start to feel very different from the first days around Lisbon.
There is more countryside, more forest, more undulating terrain, and fewer urban distractions.
You may also find yourself walking for long periods without another pilgrim. At first, this can feel strange, then it becomes peaceful. You hear birds, your footsteps, perhaps a tractor somewhere in the distance. And your thoughts become quieter.
Alvaiázere to Rabaçal: one of the more demanding sections
The official route gives this stage as approximately 32 kilometres, passing through Ansião, Santiago da Guarda and Alvorge before reaching Rabaçal. Now most of the sites break the sections into smaller distances, having 2 stops to reach Coimbra instead of just one. It is your choice how to manage it.
If you choose to go untils Rabacal, then this is one of the days when good preparation matters. The distance is long, the terrain can be tiring with elevations. And services can be more limited than in larger towns.
Useful tip: carry enough food
Don't leave your accommodation with only a bottle of water and the expectation that you will find a café whenever you feel hungry.
Have something simple in your backpack:
fruit
nuts
sandwiches
cereal or energy bars
crackers
dried fruit
You don't need a huge amount, but you need enough to avoid turning hunger into a problem. And remember that your food strategy doesn't have to be complicated. The Camino is not the time to experiment with a completely new diet, eat foods your body knows.
Rabaçal to Coimbra: history along the way
The next stage takes you towards Coimbra and passes through Conímbriga, one of the most important Roman archaeological sites in Portugal. If you are interested in history, Conímbriga is a wonderful place to include in your Camino experience.
The Roman ruins, mosaics and remains offer a fascinating reminder that people have been travelling through and settling this landscape for a very long time. You are walking a modern pilgrimage route, But the roads and landscapes beneath your feet have much older stories.
Coimbra: a city you should not rush through
Eventually, the Camino brings you to Coimbra. And after several quiet days through rural Portugal, Coimbra feels like a completely different world. The city is famous for its historic university, beautiful old streets and connection with Portuguese culture and history.
It also has a special connection with the Camino. Portuguese tourism information notes the city's links with Queen Isabel, who made a pilgrimage to Santiago, and highlights its historic religious heritage.
Coimbra is a perfect place to slow down. Explore the old university area, the library, walk through the historic centre, visit the churches and monasteries. Check opening times and buy your tickets online to avoid the long lines, also some places have timed entrances.
Sit somewhere with a coffee, and for one evening, forget about kilometres.
Tip: consider a rest day in Coimbra
A rest day does not mean you are failing. Quite the opposite. By this point, you may have already walked more than 200 kilometres, your body has earned a slower day. You will need time to fully explore that city, also it is built on hills, so quite tiring to walk up to everywhere. A rest day can also make the second half of your journey much more enjoyable.
Practical tips
1. Don't copy the traditional stages blindly
The official route information includes several stages of around 30-33 kilometres. That doesn't mean you have to walk them exactly that way. If 20–25 kilometres is your comfortable daily distance, divide the longer stages. Your camino should fit your body and your pace.
2. Start early
This is particularly important during warmer months. Starting early gives you cooler temperatures, more daylight and more flexibility if something goes wrong during the day.
3. Carry enough water
Some sections are much quieter than others. Don't assume you will find a café every few kilometres.
4. Bring snacks
A small food supply can make a huge difference on the longer stages.
5. Take care of your feet
Don't wait for a blister to become serious. At the first sign of rubbing, stop, adjust your socks, check your shoes. Use blister protection if needed. Ten minutes of prevention can save you days of discomfort.
6. Learn a few Portuguese phrases
Even if you speak English, a few words of Portuguese can make everyday interactions more enjoyable.
A simple: Bom dia, obrigada, por favor, can go a surprisingly long way.
7. Don't rush through Tomar and Coimbra
These are two of the cultural highlights of the Lisbon-Porto section. If history and architecture interest you, consider spending an extra night.
8. Leave some space for spontaneity
This might be the most important tip of all. You don't need to control every kilometre.
Perhaps you meet another pilgrim and decide to stop for coffee. Perhaps you discover a beautiful little church, or you are tired and decide to stop earlier, perhaps you simply want to sit in a village square for half an hour. Let the Camino surprise you.
Bom Caminho
Hope these tips get you in the mood for your next adventure, and you found some useful information. If you still need more details or build up confidence and courage for the planning and start of your journey, don't hesitate to contact me or email me, I'm happy to help.
You can also find me on social media with more useful advice and travel pictures at @wander.with.dora name. Contact me for a free call on wanderwithdora@gmail.com
Safe travels everyone. Buen camino!
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