Portuguese Central part 2: Coimbra to Tui
Welcome back to the Portugues central camino series, you can find the blogpost about the first part from Lisbon to Coimbra here. Now let's find out how the journey goes on up until Tui, where you cross the Spanish border and enter beautiful Galicia, and join with the coastal route.
Coimbra to Sernadelo: towards wine country
Leaving Coimbra, the route heads north towards Sernadelo. The landscape continues to change. One of the things I love about walking from Lisbon to Porto is that you don't simply experience one Portuguese landscape, you gradually move through several. The Tagus, rural Ribatejo, forests, historic towns, agricultural landscapes. And eventually the areas associated with the Bairrada wine region.
Mealhada is before Sernadelo, and is also famous for Leitão da Bairrada, the region's traditional roast suckling pig. If you are a vegetarian or vegan pilgrim (like me), don't worry. Portugal has plenty of other food options, but in smaller towns it is useful to check menus or accommodation meal options ahead of time rather than assuming there will be lots of plant-based choices.
Sernadelo to Águeda
This is another stage where an early start can make a big difference, especially during warmer months. You pass through places including Anadia, Avelãs do Caminho and Aguada de Baixo before reaching Águeda. Águeda itself is known for colourful street art and its famous umbrella installations, which make the town a fun place to explore. After days of rural landscapes, arriving somewhere visually playful can be a pleasant surprise. And you may find yourself taking far more photos than you expected.
Águeda to Albergaria-a-Velha
This section is only 16 kms. Sometimes a shorter day is exactly what you need. You don't always have to maximise the distance, you can arrive earlier, have lunch, do your laundry, take a long shower, explore the town, or simply lie down for an hour. The Camino doesn't disappear because you stopped walking at 2 pm. These sections can also be useful if the weather turns rainy, it's good to have time to dry everything and warm yourself up.
On the other hand if you feel like you wouldn't want to stop there are accomodations further ahead. I can highly recommend you one in Pinheiro da Bemposta, where I found a watermill turned into an albergue in the forest with waterfall, hammocks, nature and peace (Watermill Moinho Garcia).
Albergaria-a-Velha to Sao Joao da Madeira
The next official stage is approximately 29 kilometres. With walking further the previous day you can shorten it and make it more managable.
At this point, you may notice something interesting. You have become accustomed to walking. At the beginning, every kilometre mattered, now you might find yourself thinking:
"Only ten kilometres left." That is one of the quiet transformations of a camino, what once seemed impossible becomes normal.
Sao Joao da Madeira to Grijó
This is where the anticipation of Porto begins to grow, you know you are getting close. The landscape becomes increasingly urban, you start seeing more traffic, buildings, people.
And somewhere inside you, the same thought keeps appearing: I'm almost there. But don't let the excitement make you rush, enjoy your time before the crowd.
Grijó to Porto: the end of the first half
The final official stage from Grijó to Porto is passing through Perosinho and Vila Nova de Gaia before entering Porto. And then, suddenly, you are back in the city. But it isn't the same feeling. When you left Lisbon, you were starting a Camino. When you enter Porto, you are a pilgrim who has already crossed a large part of Portugal on foot.
You may be tired. Your shoes may look completely different. Your legs may be stronger. And your expectations may have changed. You have crossed the country from south to north. And there is something deeply satisfying about arriving in Porto knowing that you walked there. You are already at 400 kms done. Celebrate is with an extra day in Porto, visit the famous places, taste the local food and wine, meet with your camino friends, and also many pilgrims that will just start from here.
You can decide here to follow the central route or go along the coast of the Atlantic ocean. When I walked the Camino Central I stayed on it, but for the first day I would recommend following the coast and then join the central route on the second day again to avoid the industrial city parts. If you would like to know more about the Portugese Coastal route, you can find it here.
Porto to Tui has a very different character from the Portuguese Coastal route. It is greener, more rural in places, and includes one of the most memorable climbs of the Portuguese Camino: the ascent to Alto da Portela near Labruja. You can join the central route from the coastal in many ways, just check on the maps, how to connect.
There is something special about leaving Porto on the Camino Portugués Central.
You have just spent time wandering through the colourful streets of Porto, perhaps standing beside the Douro with a coffee in your hand, and suddenly the Camino asks you to leave the city behind.
The Central route takes you north through small villages, vineyards, ancient churches, stone paths and eucalyptus forests before eventually reaching the Portuguese border at Valença.
And then, almost without noticing it, Portugal ends. Across the Minho River is Tui, Galicia.
For many pilgrims, this is where the Camino begins to feel even more like a journey towards Santiago.
Porto: where the next chapter of the journey begins
Before you put your backpack on again, give yourself some time to enjoy the city.
Walk through the narrow streets of Ribeira, cross the Dom Luís I Bridge, visit Porto Cathedral, where many pilgrims traditionally begin their journey, and the new Pilgrim's Office near to it.
Porto to Vilarinho
The landscape gradually changes as you leave the urban area behind. The noise of Porto fades, the roads become quieter. And eventually you start seeing the familiar yellow arrows pointing you north. But again, if you wish to avoid the urban area you can walk the first stage on the coastal route and join the central the next day in Barcelos. The Wise Pilgrim app has a great map for that option.
Vilarinho to Barcelos
You will go through São Pedro de Rates, which is one of those places where the history of the Camino feels very close. The town is associated with the medieval pilgrimage tradition and its Romanesque church is one of the important historic landmarks along this route.
You pass through rural landscapes and small settlements before arriving in Barcelos. And Barcelos is one of the places I would definitely recommend slowing down for.
The town is famous for its connection with the Rooster of Barcelos, one of Portugal's best-known cultural symbols. You will probably see colourful ceramic roosters everywhere. And yes, you may be tempted to buy one.
Tip: many people choose to do the first day on the coast and join back today to the central route. Book your accommodation ahead for today, because it can be surprisingly crowded, especially in high season.
Barcelos to Ponte de Lima
This is one of the longer traditional stages, and you will also have some elevations. It is also a beautiful section. The Camino leads through villages, agricultural landscapes and quiet roads before eventually arriving at Ponte de Lima.
This is where the Central Camino starts to feel increasingly rural. And there is something wonderfully peaceful about walking through northern Portugal. You may pass vineyards, small chapels, old stone houses, dogs barking somewhere behind a gate, a farmer working in a field, cows, donkeys, horses everywhere.
If you feel the distance is long for you (34,5 kms) you can stop earlier, as the next section is a short one, so you could break it up more evenly. I stayed in Sobreiro, about 7 kms before Ponte de Lima, and it was more comfortable. Also was lucky enough that because not much pilgrims stay here I got a private double room for the price of the dormitory in a beautiful family house which works as an albergue, and also has a huge terrace facing the hills.
Ponte de Lima: one of the camino's special places
Ponte de Lima is one of my favourite places on this section. The town takes its name from the beautiful medieval bridge spanning the Lima River. It is also one of the places where I would recommend arriving early enough to actually enjoy your surroundings, sit by the river, walk across the bridge, discover the small botanical garden on the other side. I was lucky enough to arrive on a day, when they had a market on the river bank. Visit the church and the tourist office in the tower to get a stamp of course and more information about the city.
Ponte de Lima to Rubiães
Now comes one of the stages that many pilgrims talk about afterwards. The distance itself doesn't sound frightening, it's 17,5 kms. But the terrain changes.
The Camino climbs towards the Alto da Portela/Labruja area with 400 metres elevation. This is where you may discover that kilometres don't tell the whole story. Twenty kilometres on relatively easy terrain can feel very different from twenty kilometres involving a significant climb and uneven surfaces. The landscape, however, is beautiful. Forest, stone, green hills.
Tip: Don't attack the climb, walk slowly. Shorten your stride, take breaks, drink before you become thirsty, and don't compare your pace with anyone else's. The person flying past you uphill may be walking a completely different Camino from yours. Take a rest at the top of the hill, and enjoy the views.
Rubiães to Valença or Tui
The final Portuguese stage ends in Valenca before crossing the boarder. There is a particular feeling when you realise that Portugal is behind you. You have walked from Lisbon or Porto. Your legs are stronger, your backpack feels slightly more familiar, your morning routine is automatic, You know exactly how much water you need, you have probably learned which socks work. And you have stopped caring quite so much about how you look after walking for several hours.
Valença: Portugal's gateway to Spain
Valença sits beside the Minho River, directly opposite Tui in Galicia. The historic fortress is one of the most impressive sights in the town, and it is worth spending some time exploring before crossing into Spain. It is a tiny village inside the town. Many pilgrims decide to sleep here instead of Tui and enjoy the views of the other side from the walls of the fortress, walk the small streets and have a quiet dinner in one of the restaurants. This is also a nice place to pause and realise what you have just done, because the Portuguese part of your journey is almost over, but Santiago is still waiting.
Crossing from Valença to Tui
And then comes the moment, you cross the bridge over the Minho River. Portugal is behind you, Spain is ahead. Technically, you haven't reached Santiago yet, but emotionally something changes. You have crossed an international border on foot, and you are now in Galicia. The signs, language, food and landscape begin changes.
Tui is your first stop on the Spanish side of the Camino. The cathedral dominates the historic town and is well worth visiting. I was lucky enough to rech the town on a public holiday, so the visit of the cathedral was for free, on the other hand no shops opened and there were fireworks from 11 p.m. rigth next to our albergue, so didn't have much sleep that night.
Explore the city, have a Spanish meal, look back at your camino, then get ready for the next chapter.
A few practical tips for walking Coimbra to Tui
1. Break up longer sections to shorter stages, you don't need to follow the pre-written distances. There are a lot of very short and very long stages after each other, try to find something in between to make it comfy for you and your feet.
2. Book accommodation ahead during busy periods
The Lisbon–Porto section can be quieter than the Porto–Santiago section, but accommodation options vary significantly from one town to another.
If you have a fixed schedule, booking ahead can make the journey less stressful, especially in some of the places where the people can join from the coastal route, like Barcelos and Tui.
3. Expect some road walking
The Central Camino is not a continuous forest trail. There are roads, villages, urban sections and stretches of pavement. Good footwear and attention to traffic are important.
4. Download maps before you start walking
Even though the Camino is waymarked from Lisbon, it is useful to have an offline map available. There are points where you can switch between coastal and central, and if you plan on doing it, then it can be very helpful. Gronze, Camino Ninja, Wise Pilgrim are all good ones.
5. Check the route before every stage
Waymarking can occasionally be confusing around towns, roads and construction areas.
Take five minutes before leaving to look at the day's route. It can save you much more than five minutes later. I also like to check it the night before, so I don't miss any interesting spots on the way, you can read about history and also check Google maps, because sometimes the camino just pass by some interesting places.
6. Don't underestimate the Labruja climb
The Ponte de Lima–Rubiães section is not necessarily the longest, but the terrain makes it a day worth preparing for. Take it slowly.
One final Camino thought
You don't need to walk the Camino perfectly.
You don't need to walk the longest stage.
You don't need to walk quickly.
You don't even need to know exactly why you decided to come.
Just put one foot in front of the other.
The Camino will take care of the rest.
Hope these tips get you in the mood for your next adventure, and you found some useful information. If you still need more details or build up confidence and courage for the planning and start of your journey, don't hesitate to contact me or email me, I'm happy to help.
You can also find me on social media with more useful advice and travel pictures at @wander.with.dora name. Contact me for a free call on wanderwithdora@gmail.com
Safe travels everyone. Buen camino!
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