Camino Francés - part 3

At the end of the previous part, my journey took me all the way to Sahagún. Arriving in the town, I was greeted by a graffiti on one of the first houses, a scene from the famous Caminos movie. A sign in the town's main square indicates that we have reached half of the entire route, from here there is less ahead of us than behind us. As I learned from two of my lovely Spanish travel companions, there is a hill to the left of the square with a monastery on top. The building is not very big, but you can leave your backpack at the entrance, so it is perfect for a daytime rest.

Tip: The significance of this place is not only its beauty, but also the fact that you can get a halfway compostela here, which even has a dragon on it! I was really grateful for this information, because I would have regretted it if I had missed it. Not because it is such an important document, but it is still my favorite of all.

In the next few days we will reach the end of the Meseta, all the way to Leon, which is again a major hub and worth taking the time to explore. The cathedral is a unique sight, and the city center is also beautiful, with huge parks, peacocks, lakes. If you like museums, then it is definitely worth visiting a few, or immerse yourself in the nightlife, the bars with local specialties and tapas await.

Leaving Leon, we return to the dirt roads, leaving the hustle and bustle of the big city behind us. In Hospital de Obrigo, I managed to find a really special accommodation, where there was also a painting corner available, and the completed works were exhibited on the walls of the albergue. The next morning I met an old man who waits for pilgrims in the building he decorated himself and collects money from different nations and photos taken with pilgrims on the wall. There is also a nice little buffet for breakfast, the seal of which is a cute garlic.

Albergue San Miguel

On the way, at the top of the hill, I stumbled upon a hippie community rest area, where music and cookies await the tired walkers, and from there we arrive in Astorga. This city hides one of Gaudi's buildings, which is worth visiting because it offers a unique experience inside and out. Another attraction of the city is the Chocolate Museum, where you can taste the finest chocolates in Spain.

After Astorga, I managed to find my other favorite accommodation in El Ganso, a place called the Indian Village, where you can sleep in a teepee, or Indian tent. However, you have to take into consideration that there is no heating, but they provide thick blankets. There was a great community dinner, you can relax in hammocks in the yard, and in the morning you are greeted by the sight of cows when you step out of the tent.

After Foncebadón, one of the most famous parts of the route awaits us, the Cruz de Ferro or Iron Cross, where we can symbolically place the pebbles we have brought with us, thus laying down the spiritual burdens we have been carrying so far. If the weather is good, it is worth resting in the small park next to it and reading the information boards. A little later, we reach the 1505 meter altitude, which is also the highest point of the camino.

It is also worth stopping in Ponferrada, visiting the castle and sitting in one of the restaurants or bars in the square. In the following sections we will cross mountains, one of the famous sections is O Cebreiro, where you have to overcome a 600-meter climb in 10 kms. Then we reach the border of Galicia, which is the land of rain, cows and, according to legends, witches.

After Tricastela, there are two routes to choose from. The original route goes to Samos, where there is a beautiful monastery, which the local monks will show you around, and also includes accommodation. The alternative route is 7.2 kilometers shorter and goes through beautiful valleys.

At the end of this section, we reach Sarria, which is one of the major junctions, since those who want to complete the last 100 kilometers all start from here. So if you want to stay here, it is worth starting to book accommodation. Expect the peace and quiet to end and from here on it will be more bustling, with groups and students appearing, giving the route a different atmosphere.

Hope these stories get you in the mood for your next adventure, and you found some useful information.  If you still need more details or build up confidence and courage for the start of your journey, don't hesitate to contact me or email me, I'm happy to help.

You can also find me on social media with more useful advice and travel pictures at @wander.with.dora name. Contact me for a free call on wanderwithdora@gmail.com 

Safe travels everyone.