Camino Francés - part 2

Arriving in Logrono, you are greeted by a real big city atmosphere, statues, churches, colorful graffitis on buildings, and after the quiet countryside, lots of people. Here the orientation is not so simple and clear, arrows are sometimes painted on the edge of the sidewalks, sometimes on electricity poles, you have to be on your toes to find them all.

Tip: in big cities, it's worth using a map, app or gpx file to find your way around, because it's easy to get lost. The signs are sometimes incomplete, or the painted arrows wear off the surfaces during use. I also usually mark the accommodation on Google Maps, so I don't have to remember where I need to go back to in the evening. If you need a code to enter, or if your bed number is indicated, it's worth taking a photo of these so that there are no problems getting in. Pay attention to whether there is a closing time, so that you don't end up outside at night.

After our birthday party together, I set off on my journey enthusiastically the next day. It was then that I remembered that I still had the chocolates I had received as a gift from home and a candle with me, so I had breakfast on a bench, lit my candle, took out the chocolate, then made a wish and was grateful for being here.

I didn’t expect that the first 5 km of this day would be spent getting out of the city. But in the end, I reached a beautiful lake, which made up for it. The next town was Navarrete, where I went into the local church. I am always amazed at how much gold they can cram into even the smallest church. Some people have asked me why I go into all of them, because I am simply amazed by how much splendor and detail there is everywhere.

I think the Francés route will remain my all-time favorite, not only because it was the first route I walked, but because there is something interesting waiting for you around every corner. Sometimes there is a painting, an interesting sign, ruins, a hippie community, a food truck, sometimes it is simply the diverse landscape itself that enchants you. In April, nature awakens, the vines bud and everything starts to grow.

Tip: due to the alternation of mountains and plains on this route, it is good to be prepared for all weather conditions. Until May, it is capricious, sometimes sunny, sometimes rainy, and even snow in some places, while in summer it is worth paying attention to the strong sun. Sunscreen is mandatory in almost all seasons, as is a hat and a thin scarf that covers the neck and face, and a warm sweater and light jacket in the evening and morning cold. I once set off in the morning at -2 degrees Celsius and by 10 am it was already 34 degrees. Layered clothing comes in handy in these cases. Never take off too much at once because you can quickly catch a cold in the wind and cool weather.

The largest city in this part is Burgos. You can reach it by two roads, and I chose the alternative route to Castanares, because here you don’t have to walk along the main road, but through a park. Here I also found a small monastery and museum, which is worth visiting.

I think Burgos has the most beautiful Gothic cathedral on the whole road, which has been a World Heritage Site since 1984, we spent 3 hours in there. It was quite a rainy day, so I was grateful for this experience. After the church, we sat in a nearby bar to recharge our energy stores, and then everyone tried to get to their accommodation.

Tip: when I get to bigger cities, I usually book a private room, sometimes it’s nice to be alone in the room and do whatever I feel like all night, listen to music, read in silence, and of course shower for as long as I want, and then sleep without clothes. In this case, I can leave the washed clothes hanging around, and a snoring-free night recharges me with energy.

Leaving the city, the Meseta begins, which continues to Leon. This is a relatively flat section that many people skip because they find it boring, but I don't think it's worth skipping. You can walk all day in landscapes that look like a Windows wallpaper came to life.

One of my favorite places in this area is the ruins of San Anton, where there is also a monastery, which can only be visited from May 15th to October 30th. According to old legends, the place cured serious diseases.

I especially liked the early mornings on the Meseta, when the weather is cooler and the shadows are long. This part is suitable for getting lost in our thoughts or just turning off our brains and just enjoying the walk and the sunshine. One of my fondest memories is that I met butterflies every day, sometimes they even landed on me, and at such times I felt that one of my relatives, who is no longer with us, was accompanying me on my journey and watching over me. There was a day when it was almost noon and I realized that I had not seen a single butterfly that day. Five minutes later, before I reached the next village, at least fifty butterflies flew out of a bush and started circling around me. I was so surprised and touched that I started to cry (I think this was the only time during the trip). Of course, a police car pulled up next to me and they immediately asked me what was wrong and how they could help me, to which I replied, laughing and crying, that there was nothing wrong, it was just the butterflies. They probably thought I was crazy, but in the end they left me alone.

Tip: the camino is not only a physical challenge, but also a spiritual journey, whether you like it or not. Many things may come to the surface, or you may find solutions, but it may also raise new questions. It is worth keeping a journal, if you don't want to carry one in physical form, you can even write it in your phone notes whenever you feel like it.

Shortly before Leon we reach the halfway point in Sahagún, which is marked by a sign in the town's main square. This small town is also worth stopping for a while, and I'll tell you why in the next part.

Hope these stories get you in the mood for your next adventure, and you found some useful information.  If you still need more details or build up confidence and courage for the start of your journey, don't hesitate to contact me or email me, I'm happy to help.

You can also find me on social media with more useful advice and travel pictures at @wander.with.dora name. Safe travels everyone.