The Via de la Plata: from Seville to Mérida – where the camino begins in the south

There is something special about beginning a camino in the south of Spain. Perhaps it is the warmth of the Andalusian sun, the whitewashed villages, the scent of orange trees, or the feeling that you are setting off on a journey through centuries of history. Whatever it is, the Via de la Plata offers a very different beginning from the more familiar Camino Francés or Portugués.

Starting in Seville, this long-distance pilgrimage route takes you north through Andalusia and into Extremadura, following landscapes shaped by Roman roads, ancient settlements, agriculture and the changing seasons. It is a camino for those who enjoy open spaces, quieter paths and the feeling of travelling through a less crowded part of Spain.

And although the Via de la Plata is sometimes described as a difficult route, its challenges are not only about walking distance. It asks you to plan carefully, carry enough water and become comfortable with your own company.

Seville: a beautiful place to begin

Seville is one of those cities that deserves more than a quick overnight stay before you start walking. Its narrow streets, lively squares, orange trees and impressive architecture make it a wonderful place to ease into the camino spirit.

Before setting off, take time to visit the Cathedral of Seville, where you can obtain your first pilgrim credential, stamp and, if you wish, visit the tomb of Christopher Columbus. The Giralda tower and the beautiful Plaza de España are also worth exploring (did you know that scenes for the Star Wars were filmed here?)

The camino leaves the city and gradually moves into quieter surroundings. Your first walking days introduce you to the agricultural landscapes of Andalusia, with olive groves, fields and small villages.

A little tip: give yourself at least one full day in Seville before walking. Buy any last-minute supplies, check your equipment and enjoy a proper meal. There is no need to rush the beginning of a journey that may take several weeks.

Buy your entry ticket to the Cathedral before your visit as it is time bounded and tickets run out fast.

From Seville to the open countryside

The first section takes you through places such as Guillena, Castilblanco de los Arroyos and Almadén de la Plata. The landscape gradually changes as you leave the outskirts of Seville behind.

One of the first memorable stretches is the walk towards Castilblanco de los Arroyos, where the urban environment gives way to open countryside and Mediterranean vegetation. The following section towards Almadén de la Plata is more demanding, with a long walk through rural terrain.

This is where you begin to understand the character of the Via de la Plata. Villages can be far apart, services are not always available when you need them, and a quiet path can remain quiet for hours.

Almadén de la Plata is a lovely place to pause and enjoy the slower rhythm of village life. From here, the route continues towards El Real de la Jara and then into Extremadura.

A little tip: Never assume that you will find a café, shop or water fountain along the way. Check the services available at your next stop before leaving in the morning, and carry enough water and food for the entire section. There are sections where the distance is over 30 kms, you can break it up by taking a taxi and going back the next morning to continue. Plan your days ahead taking this in consideration.

Entering Extremadura: Dehesa landscapes and peaceful villages

Crossing into Extremadura is one of the first big transitions on this camino. The region is famous for its dehesa landscape: open woodland with holm oaks and cork oaks, where cattle and the famous Iberian pigs graze.

The route passes through Monesterio, a small town well known for its Iberian ham. It is a good place to enjoy local food and replenish your supplies.

Further north, Fuente de Cantos and Zafra offer a taste of traditional Extremaduran life. Zafra is particularly attractive, with its historic centre, beautiful squares and impressive castle-like palace, now used as a hotel.

The walking continues through agricultural land towards Villafranca de los Barros and Torremejía. Vineyards and olive groves become familiar companions, and the landscape can feel wonderfully spacious. You may find yourself walking for hours with nothing but the sound of your footsteps, birds and the occasional tractor in the distance.

Mérida: A Roman city on the camino

One of the great highlights of this first section is Mérida, the ancient Roman city of Emerita Augusta.

Founded in 25 BC, Mérida is home to some of Spain's most impressive Roman remains. Its Roman theatre and amphitheatre are the best-known sights, but the city also has an impressive Roman bridge, aqueducts, temples and archaeological sites.

Walking into Mérida after several days on quiet country paths feels like stepping into another world. It is a wonderful place to take a rest day, explore the historic centre and enjoy the contrast between the ancient city and the rural landscapes you have crossed.

The Roman bridge is particularly meaningful for camino walkers. Bridges have always been important on pilgrimage routes, connecting communities and helping travellers continue their journey.

A little tip: If you enjoy history, allow enough time to visit the Roman Theatre and Amphitheatre. Mérida is not simply a place to sleep before the next stage; it is one of the most interesting cultural stops on the entire Via de la Plata.

Practical tips for this first section

• Choose your season carefully. Spring and autumn are generally more comfortable than the height of summer. Temperatures in this part of Spain can become extremely high. It is extremly dangerous to walk it in the warmer months.

• Start early. Walking in the cooler morning hours is especially important in exposed countryside. The first half of this route is relatively plain, with less shade, so temperatures rise high pretty quickly.

• Plan your water supply. Some stretches have very few facilities. Carry more water than you think you will need. Check the distances ahead.

• Check accommodation in advance. The route is quieter than the popular caminos, and accommodation options can be limited in smaller villages. As there are longer stages, check if you can find any accommodation between end points.

• Do not underestimate the distances. Some traditional stages are long. It is perfectly reasonable to divide them differently if accommodation and transport options allow. The longest section is 38,3 kms with only off-route accommodations, so calculate the extra distance in your daily kilometers.

• Enjoy the food. Try local Extremaduran specialities, including Iberian ham, cheeses, stews and seasonal produce.

Is this section right for you?

The Via de la Plata from Seville to Mérida is a wonderful introduction to a quieter, more independent style of Camino. It is ideal for walkers who enjoy history, open landscapes and a little solitude.

It may be less suitable if you prefer frequent cafés, busy villages and plenty of accommodation choices along the route. You need to be comfortable planning ahead and adapting when services are limited.

But if you are looking for a camino that allows you to slow down, observe the landscape and experience a different side of Spain, this southern beginning might be exactly what you are looking for.

The Via de la Plata does not try to entertain you at every kilometre. Instead, it gives you space to notice the small things – the first light over the fields, an old stone bridge, a village café opening its doors, or the simple pleasure of reaching your destination at the end of a long day.

And that is a rather beautiful way to begin a Camino.

Hope these tips get you in the mood for your next adventure, and you found some useful information. If you still need more details or build up confidence and courage for the planning and start of your journey, don't hesitate to contact me or email me, I'm happy to help.

You can also find me on social media with more useful advice and travel pictures at @wander.with.dora name. Contact me for a free call on wanderwithdora@gmail.com 

Safe travels everyone. Buen camino!